Cross-cultural reflections by students from Wartburg Theological Seminary immersed in the social and ecclesial cultures of Iceland and Norway.
22 January 2010
Comin' at ya, from the States!
Yet, being in this situation while in Iceland only added to the experience. What better community to be in when something like this occurs than with your seminary classmates? There was no better example of pastoral care, both given and received, than what happened with our group. Between the tears, the hugs, the quiet encouragement, and the prayers, I couldn’t imagine a better group to be with at that time.
My first question for this trip centered on how the church in Iceland differs from the church that I am familiar with in the USA. The established church in Iceland is Lutheran, so there were many similarities. The sacrament of baptism is a very important rite that most people take part in, many more than who worship on a regular basis, just like here. Confirmation for youth, the act of affirming their baptism, is an extremely important milestone, with a greater percentage of youth taking part than here. This emphasis of this milestone is probably comparable to graduation from high school for us. And just like in the USA, once confirmed many of the youth are never seen again inside the church. But from here the differences were what struck me. Weekly worship services and receiving the sacrament of communion on a regular basis are not necessarily typical. Some parishes, especially the in the more rural areas, may only worship every other week, or even just monthly. Many also don’t believe that communion needs to be a regular occurrence. Most of the priests we talked with don’t necessarily believe these things, but what can they do when most of their congregants do? Stewardship of money is unheard of because the money that goes to the church is taken out of the government taxes. Quite a foreign concept to us, but it seems to work (for the most part) for them.
I also learned a great deal about the role of a priest in the established church. They are a public figurehead of their community, which can be good and bad. Good in the sense that they could knock on someone’s door in their community, tell them they are the parish priest, and they would be let in. Bad because they are very much in the public spotlight and can end up on the front page of the paper if someone in their family does something wrong. But, because of this, their emphasis is more on pastoral care and not so much on programming and administration (at least from what I observed.) They tend to be more of a pastor to the people rather than a pastor to a congregation, which is something that I would certainly like to model in my ministry.
My other objective in taking part in this J-Term class was to learn what it’s like to be an outsider. I thought that going to a country where my language is not their native language and where I would have to be dependent on others for my daily needs would be a challenge. But the friendship and hospitality that we received made me feel right at home. It was certainly a wonderful model of how to treat the stranger that I hope I can bring back as well.
I can’t end without thanking our hosts, Gunnar and þora, for Guðni and Asdis for opening their home to me, and my new friends at Wartburg for opening their trip and their hearts to us non-Wartburgers. It was a beautiful trip that I am not soon to forget.
Bless!
Oh God, we are your hands and feet in this world. Thank you for those who are witnesses of your love and compassion and welcome strangers into their lives. Thank you for unique and diverse models of ministry that we are called to learn from. Bless us and send us into this world to continue the work that was started by your Son, Jesus Christ. Amen.
21 January 2010
Reflections
I was also delighted to find an abundance of windows. The Icelanders know what windows should be like. The Scandinavian aesthetic of steel, concrete, and glass is lovely to behold and to dwell in, and from its low angle the sunlight is gathered and directed into homes and other buildings through huge, glassy expanses of picture windows. And all those windows seemed to boast fantastic views, whether it was the 11 a.m. sunrise, the long afternoon of pastel twilight, or the bright lights of the city gleaming at night.
Best of all, there are whole towns devoted to greenhouses, such as Hveragerði, which we passed on our way to Skálholt. Between the sun and the geothermal radiators (hot water, 100°C, piped straight out of the ground), they are able to grow not only tomatoes but also tropical things like bananas.
(Speaking of green energy, we saw one of Iceland’s hydrogen filling stations, which was right alongside the regular gas station. There was even a “line” of two cars. We also learned a bit about the possibilities of canola oil for fuel from our hostess, þóra, who is researching how the long summer days can produce bumper crops in the north of Iceland.)
Another of my questions had to do with mythology and how it influences the culture and Christianity. I didn’t see a tremendous amount of this on the surface, but I did get a few people to tell me stories about Odin and Loki and the Jotuns. I also enjoyed an evening with Anna Rún looking at the sculpture of Einar Jónsson (www.skulptur.is) in a beautiful book of photos. Many of the sculptures are highly mythological, and we had a lot of fun figuring out what they all meant. I also passed Ari’s pop quiz on Tolkien. (I was impressed at how many aspects of Icelandic landscape and culture are subtly referenced in LOTR. For example, the horses—gorgeous!!—in the myths have names that end with “fax,” which means “mane.” Just like Shadowfax. Also, if you like horses at all, you must see the Icelandic horse’s special gait, called the tölt: click.)
My third question had to do with contemplation. I said that I hoped to meditate and maybe learn a new spiritual practice. What I was really seeking was a break from the anxiety of a very stressful semester. I read this in the Poetic Edda:
The foolish man lies awake all night
and worries about things;
he’s tired out when the morning comes
and everything’s just as bad as it was.
Very true. This reminded me of Job 3:26:
"The thing that I fear comes upon me,
and what I dread befalls me.
I am not at ease, nor am I quiet;
I have no rest; yet trouble comes."
It’s clear that worrying doesn’t help one bit. None of us by being anxious can add at all to our span of life (Mt. 6:27). Yet, I still find myself worrying. A lot.
Two things happened on this trip that may help to change that for me. One was participating in the communion service at Skálholt by reading, in English of course, the New Testament reading for epiphany: Ephesians 3:1-12. I have never participated in any service, least of all in a foreign country in a place like Skálholt – a church that is, in a very real way, the spiritual center of Iceland. When you look at the photo at the top of this blog, you can see that this is not an old church – it was finished in the 1960s. What you can’t realize without going there is that the site is absolutely ancient, the center of Christianity since 1000 B.C.E. But when you go, and see the stone coffin in the basement, walk through the ancient tunnel to where the village used to be, when you read the names of all the bishops going back 1,000 years – you start to get a sense of the place. Participating in the morning and evening prayers there was a beautiful, meditative experience, charged with familiar phrases in a new language (Faðir vor, miskunna þú oss, Drottinn). Participating in the communion service was something I would certainly never have dared to do. Luckily, Sam didn’t give me an option. So, I had the tremendous honor and blessing of declaring the mystery of Christ before a congregation of pastors at Skálholt. I did it in a shaky, too-quiet voice, and the timing was awkward and unrehearsed, but that didn’t take away from how I felt.
The other thing that happened was the earthquake in Haiti and the death of our friend Ben. If Matthew 6:27 didn’t hit home before, it does now. I don’t want to say too much about this right now, but here are a few thoughts. He died with a song of praise to God on his lips; in our grief, we who remain are bound more closely in love with one another and in our God, whom we trust will wipe all tears from our eyes; and none of us, by being anxious, can add at all to our span of life.
Iceland was everything I hoped it would be, and so much more. Twilight, water, ice, volcanoes, horses, friends, family, songs, prayers, tears, laughter, lectures, rocks, trees, geysirs, hot springs, surf, stars, poetry, mythology, feasts, joy, and sorrow. I can’t wait to go back – probably some June.
Lord God,
You comfort us in sorrow and laugh with us in joy. Thank you for all the wonderful experiences, hospitality, beauty, and love that were showered on us in Iceland. Be with us as we mourn the loss of our friend, and bring comfort and aid to those who are grieving and suffering in Haiti. Let those of us who remain love and serve you in all we do and experience. In Christ’s name we pray. Lord, have mercy. Amen.
What am I doing here?
I went to Iceland with one question. Well I went with many questions, but with only one “official,” course-related question. What role does religion and the church play in the culture of Iceland? I think I went with the assumption that because Iceland has a national church, the role would be sort of de facto, expected. I also think I maybe expected the experience of church to be similar to my experience of church here in America, where you are a pastor to your parishioners. From the moment we landed in Iceland, I discovered I was completely wrong. Driving in to Reykjavik from the airport in the inky darkness that first morning with a young pastor, I asked him the size of his congregation. “Oh, about 11,000,” he said off-handedly, “we’re the fastest growing parish in Iceland.” Luckily it was dark, so I don’t think he noticed my jaw drop. 11,000! Was I riding in the car of a mega-church pastor? What was he doing? That was amazing! “How many people come to worship on a Sunday?” I continued, amazed. “Oh, a hundred or so.” I couldn’t make the numbers compute in my head, but I soon learned the problem was in definitions. For the Icelandic church, this pastor’s parish was his neighborhood. Whether they ever worshipped in his church or not, he and his senior pastor were responsible for being the pastoral presence for everyone in his district. This meant providing a worship experience, but it also meant providing pastoral care, support for life transitions, baptisms, confirmations, funerals, etc. Being a pastor in Iceland is not about leading worship, thought that is also an important part of what they do, it is about being the pastor for your community. Gunnar, our host, stressed over and over again that he never asks anyone what church they go to. As long as they are in his district, they are a part of his congregation. I was incredibly struck by this. So often I am hesitant to talk about church, to reach out to others, because I assume that if they want a church, they have their own, and I don’t want to appear to churchy. Watching the Icelandic model reminded me that serving people does not have to mean dragging them kicking and screaming through the doors of a sanctuary. Jesus did not only serve the people who came to his church or heard him preach or believed in him. Jesus served everyone he came across. I pray that as I settle back into life here in the states that I remember the Iceland pastor’s service to his or her neighborhood, and that I might not be afraid to share a God who is bigger than the walls of the church building.
God of the margins. Thank you for your Son, who consistently reached out to all people, not just those who spoke or thought or worshipped like him. Thank you for the hospitality of the people we met in Iceland, who opened their homes, their lives, and their hearts to a group of eleven Americans who did not speak or think or worship like them, and taught us new ways to think, to speak, and to worship. Thank you for the hospitality of the Wartburg community, for welcoming me in as a stranger and making me feel like a part of their community. Be with all those who are marginalized and in need of feeling a part of the whole. Amen.
Before we began our journey, we were asked to come up with a question or two that would help us focus our learning while in Iceland. My question centered on the current economic conditions facing Iceland is facing and how this crisis is affecting the Icelandic Church in regards to funding of programs and outreach. What I learned was far more involved than just the current economic situation. Iceland’s church structure is far different then what we are accustomed to in the United States.
In Iceland, the Evangelical Lutheran Church is the “established” church of Iceland. The current funding arrangements between the State and the Church were originally established in 1907 and reviewed in 1998. What was set forth from this agreement was the State gets the churches property in exchange for the State paying for 139 pastors’ salaries. Because of this arrangement, pastors are ex facto State employees. In addition to this, each church receives 600 kroner per member per month from a tariff collected by the state. This monthly amount pays for church operations and other similar expenses.
Because of this tariff, offering is not collected during church services. This lack of offering raised some concerns for me as an individual. It is my opinion that offering is an integral part of one’s faith practice. Offering is a disciplined, intentional act of giving back a percentage of what God has blessed and bestowed upon us as individuals. Even though there is a collection of offering via the tariff it runs counterintuitive to what I believe to be an integral part of one’s faith practice. But regardless of my opinion, the system works for the Icelandic Church.
On a completely different note, I want to take this time to share a difficulty of mine during this journey. So often we are accustomed to giving that the thought of receiving goes by the wayside. But sometimes one needs to learn how to accept overwhelming and unearned generosity and kindness. This is exactly what occurred to me on this trip to Iceland. The kindness we received cannot be explained in words. There were those who opened their homes to us for two weeks, fed us more then we could eat, explained the customs of their homeland, and taught us the fellowship of brothers and sister in Christ. This is one of the unexpected outcomes of this trip for me.
Gracious Father,
I thank you for the experiences and friendships that have come from this two week journey. It is an experience that will last far longer than two weeks. I pray that the ideas we shared between us will help to strengthen Christ’s church in Iceland and America. May our brother and sisters in Christ continue to learn from each other and the ideas and experiences we gather and share be used to bridge gaps between nations.
In your blessed name we pray, Amen.
20 January 2010
Emerging from a crisis
I entered this adventure with two questions to guide my thoughts and quickly generated many more. I found myself fascinated both by the differences and similarities between Icelandic and American cultures. I found that seeing reminders of what I already knew regarding how the church should be, as seen through the lens of someone else, equally as powerful as those which were entirely new.
My questions were as follows. One, how does the darkness affect how people see and experience God and two, how does the apparent isolation from both Europe and North America affect church attendance? What I found in both was mostly a non-answer, but still interesting topics to explore. On the issue of darkness, it turns out that Icelanders pay little attention to it. They have quite literally adapted genetically and therefore don't seem to care that it is dark longer and likewise in summer that its light longer. Of course having geothermally heated swimming halls and fabulous food may help soften the blow. But what was more interesting was how they viewed God. Now I won't presume to understand all Icelanders but unlike in the US, Icelanders view certain sites as holy ground, like at Skalholt and Thingvellir. Also the church, an established one at that, is a part of the culture and even the politics; such as the opening session of the Althing, or parliament. So, what I observed were a people who placed God in the national conscience, but that didn't necessarily translate into weekly service attendance.
I think that in every case we saw in the Reykjavik area, parishes had large numbers of members, but actual people in seats on Sunday was 1% or less of those members. This truth was also reflected in their church buildings, which were built to hold a large funeral, but could not possibly hold even half of their respective members. Now what I learned as the cause of this was the following. Culture, family pressure, and tradition dictate that Icelanders are baptized and in most cases confirmed in the church. But what seems to really influence this loss of attendance in early adulthood is the fact that confirmation is made to be like a graduation in the US. Most Icelandic teens receive a huge party and $1000-$5000 dollars plus gifts for being confirmed. This creates a feeling that church is something you've completed and don't need to bother with again until you have your own children to put through.
However, regardless of ones attendance record, everyone knows to which parish they belong and which priest to call should they need help. So in answer to my question of how does the geographic separation affect church attendance, I can say confidently that it does not influence it at all; instead the structure and culture of the national church shapes this issue.
So what else did I learn in Iceland. A lot. I cannot possibly post all of the incites and observations I made during this trip. However, it is absolutely true that the models of behavior, generosity, and spirituality seen in Iceland have caused a crisis in me. Some serve as reminders of how we in this global church of Christ are to act toward all and still others, through the silence of not understanding the language, serve to deepen and strengthen my own spiritual growth. Iceland may be my first culture to deeply reflect on theologically, but it will not be my last because out of this crisis I cannot go backward.
Good and Gracious God. I first thank You for the tremendous expressions of Christian love that Your servants in Iceland showed us. I pray that Your many blessings will continue to fall upon their waiting hearts. I also pray, as this trip while safe for us, did bring with it the sting of profound loss and grief. Thank you for Your servant Ben and all those in Haiti who were Christ among us. Be with us now and aways as we live in and profess Your love as so many of the saints before us. Remind us of the lessons learned in Your global church and guide us to do Your will. In Christ's name I pray, amen.
wrapping it up
Dang: How to wrap up two weeks of awesomeness in a single blog post? Maybe I’ll start with the assignment.
So, the first question I wanted to explore had to do with how “Lutheran” the Icelandic Church is and to what extent the people express that identity. I learned through my reading (here I’m referring to Haldor Laxness) that the church became Lutheran sort of overnight with a change of government. Given that, I wondered how seriously people took the adjective “Lutheran.” Turns out, things weren’t quite as simple as Laxness’s characters and narrator seemed to imply. We learned that many people in Iceland were excited about the news of the Reformation and were keen to implement some of the changes. I won’t delve too deeply into issues I don’t understand, but there were some beheadings of Catholic officials at Skálholt related to this. The curious reader can look this up. Interesting history. In any case, the mass conversion seems to be a bit of a mixed bag, but over time, people seem to have more or less “gone with it.”
I don’t know that anyone would necessarily call himself Lutheran, per se, nor did I find many people referring to the Confessions (bless you for that, by the way, Icelanders!). Furthermore, church structure seems more “Catholic” than what I am used to seeing in the States (i.e. the dominant model is concerned more with parishes than with congregations, bishops seem to have more “authority” there than here, the liturgy would be considered very “high church” to the American Lutheran observer).
In the end, I’m not sure how important it is to the everyday person to think of himself as a “Lutheran,” as such. I observed genuinely Christian diakonia, hospitality, and (in terms of the Haitian crisis) readiness to respond simply because it was the right thing to do. I think that’s more important than being a Confessions-quoting Lutheran. Not mutually exclusive, for sure, but priorities must be observed.
My second question had to do with the role of traditions (such as food) in terms of shaping national identity. Would Icelanders lose something if they didn’t “get” to eat rotten shark, rams’ testicles, whale blubber soaked in sour whey, smoked tongue and sheep-head cheese? As an outsider, my inclination is to say that the only thing they would stand to lose would be the common experience of being culturally “hazed,” like some kind of a frat-prank. But as I think more about it, and after talking to Gunnar, it seems deeper than this. When Gunnar told us that the taste of the whale fat took him back to childhood, I made the connection. This is a deeply ingrained tradition – a continuity over time that reminds people of where they came from. These are survival foods, and I think that there’s something primally important about remembering how close we all are, in spite of modern technology and sensibilities, to survival mode. It’s a close tie with the land and the sea as resources for life. And the way the Icelanders shared these traditions with us was beautiful, even if as insensitive Yanks, we couldn’t always fully appreciate it.
My last question had to do with maintaining a sense of identity in the face of modernization and the tension between staying traditional for the sake of drawing tourists and the desire to have the “finer” things. To a large degree, this question was ill-conceived. Icelanders, for the most part, are city-folk. Tradition remains in the language, the foods and customs mentioned above, and things of that nature. It’s not the same as in Ireland where one thinks of stone fences and thatched rooves (OK, spellcheck: “roofs.” Whatever.) as cultural holdovers from 2 centuries ago. Certainly both countries draw tourists based on the natural beauty of the landscapes. I also saw some parallels between how Ireland’s west coast has been commercialized (see my post on the Cliffs of Moher and the ridiculous “virtual cliff experience” in the unnecessary visitors’ centre) and how some of Iceland’s naturally stunning areas like Gullfoss and Geysir (and the whole concept of the Blue Lagoon) are somewhat defaced by tourist shops where one can buy a crappy hamburger from a guy whose only two languages are Russian and English. But I think, for the most part, this question was a wash. I owe it to my ignorance of Iceland prior to my trip. Now that I think of it, I’m still quite ignorant. More trips in the future will be necessary to right this atrocious wrong. Anyone want to help me fund some travel?
So, for good or ill, those were my 3 questions. But even more than those things, what will remain foremost in my mind is the generosity of the people we met (in the face of economic uncertainty), the welcoming hospitality of those same folks, the companionship of my fellow travelers, C3PO getting his picture taken at some of Iceland’s holiest sites, our hosts’ sense of humor (Q: “Where are we?” A: “Well, first you’re on Earth, then you’re in Iceland.”) and a bajillion good memories of the faithful people of God’s church in Iceland. I hope it doesn’t conjure too many negative connotations when I say, "Guð blessi Ísland.”
18 January 2010
J-term Wrap-up
I started this journey with three questions; with twenty hours of darkness in the winter, how is Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) combated within Iceland and what is the Church's role in fulfilling this wholeness? How has the recent economic turmoil affected the nation of Iceland and further, the Icelandic Church and how it ministers within the country? And finally, what role do Icelandic sagas, poetry, and literature have in the Modern Icelandic Church?
The first question I think went unanswered because though SAD may be a problem in other places the reasons given by wikipedia.org (a fish diet and genetics) is largely a legitimate answer. Our host Gunnar even brought up the genetic phenomenon off the cuff early in our stay. Frankly, the Icelanders have been doing this so long they've had to adapt or suffer the consequences.
The second question has a little more substance to it. I hope that I've adequately described the financial situation in the Icesave post. Things went from really good to really bad in a few days, so quite obviously there is a lot going on and in reality the pastors as public figures and leaders have a lot on their shoulders. At the lectures at Skalholt, Dan touched on the subject in an honest way that surprised all of us, including Dan. In reality, this crisis provides the church an opportunity to help Iceland reshape its identity.
Financially, the Church's connection to the state has been helped and hampered by the crisis. They haven't had to worry about decreased tithing or offerings because with the exception for a collection for specific ministries and missions, offering isn't taken. At the same time, the state has decided to tax the tariff that they collect to help fund the established church, other religious organizations, and University. So, though people have to give the same percentage of income towards the church, the church is seeing a little less of that now. What Iceland is seeing now within the church is more special ministries to help those who are having trouble making rent and putting food on the table. The only problem is that charity is sometimes hard for Icelanders to accept.
Dan identified a crisis as an event that a person cannot come out of the same, i.e., they will have to redefine themselves. What the pastors of the established church in Iceland have in front of them is a great opportunity and responsibility to help their nation reform its identity.
Finally, I must say that I really enjoyed exploring the tip of an iceberg of Icelandic literature. Some of our assigned reading included Hranfkel's Saga (Don't worry, it's unpronounceable to me too,) and Iceland's Bell by Nobel Prize winner Halldor Laxness. There is much more and if Bill Holm (an American author writing about his experiences in Iceland) is correct an Icelander is either a poet or an athlete. The main church in Reykjavik is named after one of the most famous poets/pastor in Iceland, Hallgrimur Petersson. But with all of this literary history, my question remains unanswered.
I think that in the modern church you would find that stories of trolls and elves, of the hidden people, and of the former Norse gods have slowly worked their way out of the life of the church. In the earlier days when many of the sagas were written, within the period of Christianity but remembering the Settlement Period before then, a person reading these sagas could find the melding of these two worldviews. Now though, a more poetic nature has usurped these sagas and eddas. Storytelling still may play an important part in relating life as displayed at Skalholt one evening, whether that is of the Hidden People, or of John's recounting of the feeding of the 5,000.
One part of the literary history that we were able to experience was the liturgy. Morning and evening prayer at Skalholt was a wonderful experience where we got to try our tongue at singing beautiful Icelandic chants. Much of the Liturgy is sung; so much so that if you're a pastor and you can't sing, you'll be provided with lessons from a professional opera singer named Jon, (nicknamed Nonny). Iceland is a nation that values its poets and this can be most seen within the song books and liturgies that are still used today.
Readers, it has been a joy doing this blog, and even more of a joy going to Iceland. It was truly a cross cultural experience and it was wonderful to see the Church Universal alive and welcoming in Iceland.
God of the Nations, I thank You for the wonderful opportunity to spend time in Iceland. I thank You for the wonderful people who overflowed with hospitality. I thank You for the Universal Church ministering all over this earth. I ask for your blessings upon the people of Iceland and Your continued presence with the people of Haiti and with our community at Wartburg Theological Seminary. Amen
15 January 2010
Grieving
There's much more to say, of course, and so much to reflect on about the trip specifically, so many more thanks to pour out to our hosts in Iceland. But as I said, it's our last day here - there is much packing to do. More to come when we reach the other side of the pond.
Bless!
Rob
14 January 2010
Last Day...Heavy Hearts

13 January 2010

Our time is winding down...we leave on Friday!Today we went to Keflavik and to the Blue Lagoon. We visited the church in Keflavik and learned what they're doing in this time of financial crisis. After that, we drove along the coast, stopping along the way to see a fault and a lighthouse. The view around the sea and lighthouse was GORGEOUS!!! The sun was in the perfect position, and because it was raining, we caught glimpse of a beautiful rainbow. I got video of it below!! It was so beautiful, once again, I came to appreciate how amazing God's creation is. I loved how the rainbow came down to the bottom of the lighthouse...two forms of light side by side. It was really cool! The waves crashing up against the rocks was amazing as well. This was only the 2nd time I've ever been by the shore....so it was beautiful!
As many of you know, there was a huge earthquake in Haiti yesterday. That has been on our minds since Wartburg has students there for Jterm. We were watching CNN this morning and I was very saddened at the devastation that happened there. My thoughts and prayers are with the people of Haiti and with those studying down there. What a time to be down there... Iceland sometimes epxeriences earthquakes, and there are volcanoes that could erupt at any minute as well. Life is so delicate, and so unexpected, and things can change so quickly. It's a very scary thought. On that note, I will end this post in prayer.
Gracious God,
Please be with the people of Haiti. Comfort those who have suffered loss, be with those who need healing, and be with the volunteers from all over the world who are responding to this disaster. Please also be with the families of the students who are studying in Haiti. Let your Spirit work in them to provide healing and comfort in body, mind, and spirit. Please also be with us as we spend our last days in Iceland. Grant us safe travels and grateful heart. I ask all these things in your Holy and Merciful name, Amen.
Lord, in your mercy, hear our prayer.
On behalf of our group in Iceland, I ask that those reading this pray...
...for Haiti, a country and people already devistated by poverty,
...for the Church in Haiti, including the pastors and people of Eglise Lutherienne d'Haiti,
...for the group from Abiding Hope, including Wartburg intern Sarah Thomson and seminarians from Trinity,
...for Renee and Ben Splichal-Larson and Jon Larson, senior seminarians from Wartburg,
that the strength and comfort of God's presence be felt,
that those involved in rescue efforts might be God's hands and feet,
that the injured might receive care and healing,
that those who grieve might be comforted,
that those who we love are safe,
for serenity and persistence in our prayers.
Lord, in your mercy,
Rev. Dr. Samuel Giere
Assistant Professor of Homiletics
Wartburg Theological Seminary
12 January 2010
Icesave, yousave, we all save for... Icesave!!!
In 2007, Iceland was one of the most prosperous nations in the world, I believe top six if I remember right. However, in 2008 the three major banks failed and the government took over them and restructured them, essentially placing them in bankrupt status. The combined debt of these three banks was close to six times the gross domestic product of the country, so you can see how heavy of a hit this was to the nation.
One of the banks, Landsbanki, had a foreign operation in the UK and Netherlands called Icesave, and when Iceland was doing well, several hundreds of thousands of people from both of those countries deposited money within that bank. The question is, whether these foreign deposits were insured the same way as domestic deposits. After the collapse of the bank, assets were frozen, and as you can understand, it would be difficult to pay back the depositors with money that has seemingly disappeared overnight due to the devaluation of the Kronur that happened over the course of 2008.
Of course, the UK and The Netherlands want their citizens to have their money, and Icelanders for the most part, want to respect this. The question is how this is to be paid back? Though Iceland past legislation in August saying that it will be paid back, that legislation protects the interests of the Icelandic people by not committing them to having to pay too much in one year and extends the period of repayment until 2023. During this time, they would have loans from the UK and Denmark, and other countries, that would help this process along. However this was not quite agreeable to the UK and so under pressure other legislation has recently been passed in the Althingi by a margin of 33-30 that is more favorable to the UK's desires.
The problem seen by many Icelanders is that this measure would place the load of the mistake of one bank upon the already burdened back of the people of Iceland. Early this year a petition of sixty to eighty thousand people, nearly a quarter of Iceland's population was sent to the President, who largely plays a figurehead role, to veto the bill, which he did. By vetoing the bill, the Althingi could either withdraw the bill or put it to a referendum, a public vote. The Althingi decided to put it to a public vote which is scheduled to happen before March 6th. Iceland is unique in that they are able to have a referendum to let their people decide. On the one hand there is the argument that voting for this bill would impose heavy taxation upon the people, up to 55% from the 40% that they already pay. On the other hand, their is concern that by not passing the bill Iceland's admittance into the EU could be delayed indefinitely.
When we were at Skalholt, Professor Dan Olsen gave a three part series of lectures that it at the heart of what a crisis was and what it might mean for the Icelandic people, and more particularly, how the Icelandic pastors might help their parishes cope with this identity. One passage that I think is particularly applicable to this situation is that of Luke 16:1-13, which is the parable of the Shrewd Manager, a most difficult parable, but one that speaks of forgiveness and grace none-the-less. In a lot of ways, it seems that Iceland may be seeking that shrewed manager who calls the debtors and lessons their debts.
Iceland has a long road ahead of them, and part of that road walked will be recreating their identity. Dan also had some poignant comments on this which really seemed to hit the hearts of the Icelandic pastors in Skalholt. It is something that I as an outsider can not fully comprehend, and yet, I think that it is a message that speaks to me as an American just as well. Things have been particularly hard economically for our country as well this past year and I hope that we do not come out of the recession unchanged as a people. I believe that Dan is right in that it is our responsibility and joy as pastors and ministers to lead the people in a rediscovery of an identity.
God of Grace and Mercy, We humbly come before You and ask for forgiveness of our mismanagement of our resources and Your blessings. We pray that in the midst of this crisis You do not leave us unchanged but help us to find an identity that is centered on the cross and Christ. In Jesus' name we pray, Amen.
11 January 2010
Sipping from a fire hydrant
I posed a question to the deans that make them take a brief pause before giving their thoughts; I asked "what the most important thing they'd like us to take home from our trip to their country." I've been trying to compile everything we've observed, discussed, and learned to be able to bring it home in a compact, understandable package in my head. I'll happily steal the expression that we've been "trying to take a drink out of a fire hydrant." We've been immersed into this culture trying to grasp at nuggets to take home with us. And I have certainly learned a great deal, now it's just a matter of knowing how to share this great experience with everyone back home. Maybe I'll even post it on here!
Oh God, source of all knowledge and truth, we thank you for an opportunity to build relationships with our brothers and sisters across the seas and learn new ways to live your church on earth. Help us to take away those things we can use to share the Gospel around the world. In your awesome name we pray, Amen.
Exhausted
To add to the stress, I found out 17 hours before the sermon was meant to begin that Iceland and the US attend to different lectionaries. The sermon I had been cooking up in my head corresponded to an entirely different set of texts. Oy gevalt! I spent about 12 of those 17 hours stewing over what to write, beginning sermons only to scrap in frustration, praying the whole time, "Veni, Sancte Spiritus!" After literally 2 dozen or more attempts running late into the night, I finally gave up, went to bed and began afresh the next morning. At 6 a.m. I finally found a bit of inspiration and just went for it. I don't think it was "good," in the classic sense, but at least it was heart-felt and quite literally the best I could do under the circumstances.
Once the sermon was over, I felt as though a thousand-pound weight had been lifted off, so I was able to enjoy all of the awesome things Kjerstin described in her blog entry. The only thing I would add to her version of the story is that we were guided by Hregviđur (Hreggi) Norđdahl, my "Host Father," who is a research geologist at the Univerity. There's nothing quite like being guided by an expert in the field! What a blessed day!
Today we visited the University of Iceland's Theology Department, where we met a bunch of the Theology faculty and met (and re-met) a few of the students. We also attended a lecture by Dr. Olson about pre-marital counseling. It was thought-provoking for me on a number of levels. Maybe I'll blog about that later.
After lunch we went to the Pearl. Most of the gang went out on the roof for a view of the city. I'm extremely afraid of heights and had to skedaddle back indoors after only a few seconds. We went to the Saga Museum on the ground floor (much to my satisfaction), which was a lot of fun.
Some of us then went downtown, and some of us went to the mall in search of yarn. Long story. After that, we had dinner with the local deans in this area of Iceland. After all the visiting today, I am once again completely knackered and ready to turn in. Tomorrow we meet with someone in the Bishop (of Iceland)'s office, and I'm sure Gunnar has a great deal of stuff in store for us. In the meantime, off to Sleepyland.
God of the universe and God among us, we give you thanks again for your gifts of natural beauty, for your grace and for cultivating graciousness in your people. Continue to bless this place and those who make it their home, just as you bless those of us who come to enjoy it as guests. In Christ's name we pray. Amen.
Week 2...


10 January 2010
Walking Through the Past and the Future
Walking through Thingvellir was a sacred experience. Sometimes when I am in a place
Alpha and Omega, Beginning and End, the One Who Is, and Who Was, and Who Is to Come, thank you for your active presence in this world. Thank you for the rich history that reminds us of who we are and the new gifts that point us forward into the future. Grant us the hindsight to look behind us and the foresight to look ahead. Amen.
Confirmation and Questioning God
So with that context in mind and with Sigi's (the pastor) help, we set off trying answer the questions ourselves and to guide the discussion with these kids. What I learned from them is just how much kids can and do think about God in this culture. Some clearly didn't want to be there on a Saturday morning and some had a deep faith, but still others questioned their faith. It could appear on the surface as a blatant dismissal, but from my perspective I found it more in depth and critical than most of the answers given. It shows me how God, even through doubt, is working. For even those few who questioned if anything with God was real, it was the questioning that proved God was indeed real.
Good and Gracious God, I thank you for the many blessed opportunities that You have given us all on the adventure through another land of Your kingdom. I pray that all of the children we met yesterday will follow the path that You have for them and that whether confirmation is included or not, they know the love of God in their lives. In Christ's name I pray, Amen.
09 January 2010
08 January 2010
Hospitality
Today we were in Kopavogur again. It was nice to return to our home base for a time. Now that we are adjusted to the time and the light here it is time to have our days filled, well except for tomorrow when we will for the most part fill our own day.
We started the day with a trip to Kopaskirkja to meet with a pastor, Sigi, who has been reading our blog (Hi Sigi, see you tomorrow). Sigi has done Clinical Pastoral Education in Madison and has served as a chaplain in London and so after a wonderful breakfast spread, he treated us to his experience of the Church Universal. It is great that on a cross cultural trip we should get to hear from an Icelander about his perspective on cross cultural Christianity. A few of us will meet with him again to meet with his church's confirmand students to share with them our thoughts on the question, "Why do you believe what you believe?"
After our very hospitable stay at Kopaskirkja we made our way to the Kopavogur city hall to eat lunch and meet with Pall (pronounced Palt) a theologian turned government official who helped us increase our knowledge of how the government and the church work together specifically in this community, but more widely throughout Iceland as well.
This evening we traveled a little north of Reykjavik to spend a relaxing evening eating more than our fill and being treated with a gracious amount of hospitality by Hreinn and his wonderful wife at their home. Hreinn is a pastor to prisoners in Iceland and will speak to us more on Thursday.
Hospitality here has been beyond imagination. If anyone of us goes hungry it is our own fault. That goes the same with conversation as well. It is important for us to be ready to be able to eat as much as is offered, because much will be offered. It is also important for us, as Rob described below, to be able to take in what is offered, as it is not always going to be palatable to the American tongue. None-the-less, it is wonderful that there is no holding back by our hosts of offering us what they consider the finest. But most important of all, there always awaits a glass of wine or bottle of beer, a cup of coffee, (or tea for me the lone non coffee drinker), and pleasant conversation where any lack of trust is a barrier quickly broken down and new friends are held in the esteem of old and familiar friends.
Gracious God, We thank You for Iceland, the scenery and the food. We thank You most of all for the people. As they have been gracious to us and have blessed us with their resources and their presence, we pray that You bountifully pour out Your grace and blessings upon these people, our friends. In Christ we pray, Amen.
Golden Falls et al
07 January 2010
Waterfalls, Geiysers, Whale, Shark, and Sheep Testicles....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkQdQJWJWJo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLffHZPUWGg
The geiysers were really amazing too. We were not allowed to go off the path there, there were several pits in which the water was boiling, so it was too dangerous to walk off of the path. I got video of that also, which I will post in here as well. It was so cool...the water turned a really vivid color of blue before the water shot into the air....very impressive! After seeing that we went to a souvenier shop where I was able to find a gorgeous Icelandic wool sweater...it's got purple in it! It was expensive but totally worth it. I also posted a link of the video of that below as well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FENob4-8Syc
When we got back to Gunnar's place, dinner was waiting for us. We tried a wide variety of Icelandic foods....including fermented shark and ram testicles. The shark is poisonous when uncooked due to a high content of uric acid and trimethylamine oxide, but there is a special way to prepare it to make it edible. Copied from Wikipedia, here is how it is prepared; "It is placed in a shallow hole dug in gravelly-sand, with the now-cleaned cavity resting on a slight hill. The shark is then covered with sand and gravel, and stones are then placed on top of the sand in order to press the shark. The fluids from the shark are in this way pressed out of the body. The shark ferments for 6-12 weeks depending on the season in this fashion. Following this curing period, the shark is then cut into strips and hung to dry for several months. During this drying period a brown crust will develop, which is removed prior to cutting the shark into small pieces and serving. The modern method is just to press the shark's meat in a large drained plastic container." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%C3%A1karl ) I posted the link where I got that section from if you would like to read further. It sounds gross, and while it's not the best tasting thing I've ever put in my mouth, it wasn't as bad as many TV documentaries made it out to be. I'm a very picky eater, and I had two pieces. We got it on video and I arrogantly put the piece of fish into my mouth, chewed swallowed, and after the camera stopped rolling, about 5 seconds after I involuntarily gagged. The ram testicles, however....those went down rough. Not good. But I tried it. I also tried whale meat, which tastes surprisingly like beef. I tried it thinking it was deer or some other sort of meat...but when I learned it was whale, I was floored! Very tastey!
That is all for now. It is far too late....until later...Grace and Peace!
Jenna
Creator God,
Thank you for the wonderful beauty you have created here on earth. Thank you for our eyes to see and our ears to hear the wonderful things you have crafted. You are truly amazing. Amen.
Last Day in Skalholt
Positive emotions have a function as well. They broaden and build; produce the creativity that the world needs from us; a creativity that responds to new challenges and new times; to respond with creativity and the broadening of our horizons to be able to do that; if we get away from the heavy duty demands of ordinary life and enjoy the joyous and funny parts of our lives, as well as the sad and difficult times. I loved this when he said all this; it was a reminder that our emotions serve functions; and how God uses all sorts of temperments in God's mission. Many people were amazed at what he said (as was I ) and it really made so much sense! I got the sense that they were craving the reminder that God is with them during this difficult time.
I've never been very good at being a guest, in part because I like being able to control my own use of space (invoking for a moment some of the most personally poignant bits of Dr. Olson's lecture series yesterday), but partly because I don't like to inconvenience people. Weird ego thing, I think. Anyway, I guess that's something to work on for the remainder of the trip.
Speaking of Dr. Olson's lecture - wow. He gave a series of 3 hour-long talks about identity and crisis, which he (quite masterfully) tied in to the current economic situation in Iceland and the church's role therein, but it was so much more than that, really. Maybe that's part of what has me feeling more quiet today: it's just so much to think about. I'll be working that out for a while, I think.
Today we head out for the Golden Cirlce and a bit of sight-seeing. The weather isn't as classically beautiful today, so far, but I'm not overly concerned about that. A little bit of a shy sun seems fitting for my moderately melancholy mood today.
Ugh. Too much alliteration. Time for breakfast.
God, I'm at a loss for words this morning. I feel grateful for this opportunity that we've had in this holy place among leaders of your people. I feel awed and humbled by the natural beauty here, as well. Maybe you won't mind if I take it in and reflect on it more quietly today, and simply say, "thank you." Amen.
06 January 2010
Pastors are Pastors in Every Language
Last night we had the opportunity to stay up late, share festive beverages, and talk with the Icelandic pastors, theologians, and seminarians. It was amazing to see all the ways that we are so similar to our Icelandic colleagues. We traded course schedules, tales of professors and projects, and our respective struggles with Greek and Hebrew. One of the female seminarians and I got into a long discussion about people’s common assumption that going to seminary meant we were planning to be nuns. I was surprised in a country with a Lutheran state church that the assumption would exist that women in ministry must be headed for the convent. Most of all it was fun, as it always is, to spend time with our colleagues, even colleagues we had never met before. We joked, we talked, we pondered politics and theology, and we shared the classically bad humor that seminarians are known for. It is good to be here with my brothers and sisters in Iceland.
Gracious God. Thank you for our brothers and sisters in our classes, in Iceland, and across the world. Thank you for colleagues with which to share our joys and our struggles. Thank you for the workshops and trainings and meetings that bring us together and help us to remember your love and your grace in the midst of this crazy walk that is serving you. Amen.
Differences in Christian Practices......
dfferences I have noted up to this point. There are four that immediately come to mind:
1. Baptism - Many, if not most, baptisms are done in the house. This raised questions for me about how the congregation is able to show their support for the spiritual growth of the baptized as we express at the baptism. Even though there are 20-80 people in attendance at the baptism it is a unique difference I found to be interesting.
When asked why baptisms are done in the home it was explained this has been the way for over a couple hundred years. Since churches were not heated it was easier and less of a health risk to keep the baby in the home.
2. Confirmation - In Iceland, confirmation seems to be practiced almost as an"exit" from the churchrather then an entry as an adult member. Attendance among younger people is very low. Confirmation for us in the States is acceptance as a full member of the church with all the privileges and responsibilities; there does not seem to be anything like this over here. Because of this church attendance is low until these new confirmands start their own families and bring their children to church.
3. Voluntary versus compulsory church - Church is state sponsored in Iceland and that has brought up many different questions and discussions. This will have to wait for another blog post. But needless to say there are some very interesting differences brought about by having the government involved.
4. Offering- Tithing is not discussed in the church because the funding for churches comes from a government tariff. This tariff is a per person tariff and then is given to the church to cover costs. Because of this, offering is only taken for special projects such as hunger relief, building fund, or others.
Up until recently this was overseen by the government with few problems. But with tough economic times the government is digging into this tariff and keeping some for itself. It looks like a government is a government regardless of what country you are in at the time.
All in all there have been many differences but one idea has remained constant. Christ is the center of all we do regardless of being in the United States or in Iceland. This message is universal.
A Holy Place Indeed
However, I do find myself unexpectedly connected to God in a way that is reflective of the location, not just my belief that God is all and everywhere. I have found in worship here that in the silence of not understanding the language, although that is improving with every service, I am more meditative than when I hear it my own native language. The scripture texts are particularly stirring and serve as a reminder that this is one church of God, serving all people, in the context of where they live.
Coming here and knowing that worship would be a part of our daily schedule, I wondered if the struggle of following along would dominate my thinking or if prayful worship was possible for me here. Clearly I have found the latter and I am certainly grateful for that blessing.
Good and gracious God, I thank You for Your everlasting presence in all where we dwell and worship in Your name. Please continue to bless Skalholt and all who visit it, reminding all of Your wonderful and awesome power through the Word in whom You came to live among us. In Christs name I pray, Amen.
Coming Down the Home Stretch.
I do this a lot I think, comparing my current environment to something I'm somewhat familiar with. I don't know whether it is a good thing or a bad thing, it just is. I find some comfort with the environment that is familiar and so then find it easier to cope. As we were coming into Skalholt I thought of Outlaw Ranch, a camp and retreat center in Custer, SD that I've had a part in the past year and a half. I have thought that what is happening here with the retreats and academies, and especially the pastor's gathering, is not at all different from the things that may go on at Outlaw.
And though this is a good thing, it provides me comfort I know that what is going on here is very much different. Skalholt is an ancient place. It is holy, (though I consider Outlaw holy as well), and has been conducting the activities of the Icelandic Church, including a school, since the church has been in Iceland, since 1,000 A.D. and up until recently (relatively speaking, 150 years ago) has held one of the two bishoprics of Iceland.
So even with these familiar environments and situations, I am reminded that this is a Cross Cultural Experience. It is important for me to expect and look for these differences while still being able to hold them in conversation with each other. Though I feel very much at home here, I am reminded constantly that I am in a foreign place and vice versa.
God, we thank You for our hospitable hosts here at Skalholt and throughout Iceland who have helped to make the transition here comfortable. We thank You for all that we have learned here about the Church in Iceland as we learn more about Your Church Universal. We ask for Your continued presence with us on this excursion. Amen.